Which waterfalls in Bali are worth visiting?

Bali's waterfalls are clustered in the highlands and the north, which means most of them are one to two hours from the southern beaches. Choose by region rather than by photograph, because the driving is what costs you the day.

The ones worth the drive

Sekumpul, north, near Singaraja. Generally considered the most spectacular in Bali: a set of tall falls in a jungle amphitheatre. The descent is a long staircase and a river crossing, and the climb back is hard work in the heat. Local guides are effectively compulsory and charge a fee. Allow half a day from Lovina, a full day from Ubud.

Banyumala Twin Waterfall, near Munduk. Two falls into a clear green pool you can swim in, reached by a steep 15-minute descent. The most beautiful of the accessible ones.

Munduk and Melanting, on the Munduk ridge. Easy access, a short walk through clove plantations, and both swimmable.

Aling-Aling, near Sekumpul. Known for its natural slides and jumps, run with local guides, which is either the best thing on this list or an unnecessary risk depending on temperament.

Nungnung, between Ubud and Bedugul. A powerful single drop, around 500 steps down, and much less visited than it deserves.

Tegenungan, 30 minutes from Ubud. The closest to the south, wide rather than tall, with a big swimming area and crowds to match. Convenient rather than remarkable.

Kanto Lampo, near Gianyar. A wide cascade over tiered rock that photographs beautifully, and is therefore queued for photographs.

Tukad Cepung, near Bangli. The one inside a cave, where a beam of light falls through the rock opening onto the water. Go between about 10am and noon on a sunny day or the beam is not there, and expect a queue for the spot.

Gitgit, on the north road, easy access and often busy with tour groups.

Leke Leke, in Tabanan, narrow and elegant, with a well-made path.

What nobody tells you

Most of them charge. Entry is typically 20,000 to 50,000 rupiah per person, plus parking, collected by the village. Bring cash in small notes.

The walk down is not the problem. The climb back is, in 30-degree heat with humidity, sometimes 400 or 500 steps.

They are seasonal. In wet season they are at full volume, brown with sediment, and sometimes closed for safety. In late dry season some are a trickle.

Flash floods are real. Rivers here rise fast when it rains upstream even if it is dry where you are. If a guide says get out of the water, get out.

Shoes. The steps are wet stone, concrete and mud. Flip-flops are how people fall.

Drones are restricted or banned at several sites and the fee collectors will tell you.

Sensible pairings

• From Ubud, half a day: Tegenungan, or Kanto Lampo plus Tukad Cepung.
• From Ubud, full day: Nungnung and Jatiluwih, or a Munduk loop with Banyumala and the twin lakes.
• From Munduk: Banyumala, Munduk, Melanting, all in a morning.
• From Lovina: Sekumpul and Aling-Aling in one long day.
• From the south: honestly, take a driver and accept that it is a full day. Waterfalls are not a Canggu afternoon.

The photograph problem

Several of these are famous for a single image taken from a single spot, and the queue for that spot can be an hour. Tukad Cepung's light beam and Tegalalang's swing are the clearest cases. If the photograph matters, arrive at opening time. If it does not, the less famous falls have more water and nobody in them.