Bali Off Script

What is Lombok like to visit?

Bali's neighbour with a fraction of the visitors: white-sand bays in the south, a 3,726-metre volcano in the north, and the Gilis off the west coast.

By Kai, Bali property adviser Updated 4 min read

Lombok is immediately east of Bali, similar in size, predominantly Muslim rather than Hindu, and receives a small fraction of the visitors. The landscape is arguably better; the infrastructure is not.

The three Lomboks

The south coast. A string of wide white-sand bays — Kuta, Tanjung Aan, Selong Belanak, Mawun, Mawi — separated by headlands, with surf breaks, almost no development between them, and the Mandalika circuit that brought MotoGP to the island.

The north. Mount Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano, with a crater lake and a summit trek that is the main reason many people come. Waterfalls at Senaru and Sendang Gile, rice terraces, and the quiet Gili-facing coast at Senggigi.

The east and the interior. Sasak villages, weaving, almost no tourism, and the ferry port at Labuhan Lombok for Sumbawa.

The south coast in detail

Kuta Lombok is the base: a village that has grown into a small travellers' town with cafes, guesthouses, surf schools and a night market. It is not Kuta Bali and bears no resemblance to it.

Selong Belanak, half an hour west, is the beginner surf beach: a long shallow bay with gentle waves, board hire on the sand and warungs behind it. One of the best learning beaches in Indonesia.

Tanjung Aan, ten minutes east of Kuta, a horseshoe bay with two distinct sands, calm water and a hill at the end with the classic view.

Mawi, Ekas, Gerupuk and Are Guling for surfers, with boat access to several reef breaks from Gerupuk that work at different tides and winds.

Rinjani

The 3,726-metre volcano dominates the north. The standard trek is two to four days to the crater rim, the lake and, for the fit, the summit. It is a serious undertaking, guided, with porters, and it is the best trek in Indonesia that ordinary travellers do.

The park closes annually in wet season, usually around January to March. See the Rinjani trek.

Getting there

  • Fly into Lombok International Airport from Bali in 30 minutes, or direct from Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. The airport is in the south, 30 minutes from Kuta Lombok.
  • Fast boat from Padang Bai or Sanur to Bangsal, Senggigi or Teluk Nare, 2 to 4 hours, usually via the Gilis.
  • Public ferry from Padang Bai to Lembar, 4 to 5 hours, cheap and slow and the way cars cross.

Getting around

Scooter for the south coast, where distances between beaches are 10 to 30 minutes on decent roads. A car and driver for anything longer; crossing the island takes 3 to 4 hours.

Roads are emptier than Bali's and generally in reasonable condition on the main routes, rough on the back roads. Ride-hailing apps work around the airport and Mataram but are patchy elsewhere.

What is different from Bali

Religion and culture. Lombok is predominantly Muslim and the Sasak culture is its own thing. Dress more conservatively away from the beaches, expect the call to prayer, and be aware that Ramadan changes opening hours and the atmosphere considerably.

Alcohol is less available and more expensive outside tourist areas.

Development. Far less of it. That is the appeal, and it also means fewer restaurants, fewer good hotels and thinner medical facilities.

Prices. Lower than Bali for accommodation and food, similar for activities.

How long

Four to five nights for the south coast. Add three or four for Rinjani. A week gets you both, comfortably, and most people who come for three nights wish they had booked longer.

Common questions

Is Lombok better than Bali?

Emptier beaches, better trekking and lower prices, with far less infrastructure, fewer restaurants and thinner medical care. Different rather than better.

How do you get from Bali to Lombok?

A 30-minute flight, a 2 to 4-hour fast boat, or a 4 to 5-hour public ferry from Padang Bai to Lembar.

Where should you stay in Lombok?

Kuta Lombok for the south-coast beaches and surf, Senggigi or the northwest for Rinjani and the Gilis, or a bay like Selong Belanak for quiet.

Is Lombok safe for tourists?

Yes, with the same caution as anywhere. It is quieter than Bali and less used to tourism, and dressing modestly away from the beach is appreciated.

Is Lombok good for families?

The calm southern bays like Selong Belanak and Tanjung Aan are excellent for children. Facilities and medical care are more limited than in Bali.

Kai, Bali property adviser

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