Can you travel overland from Bali to Java?

Java is 3 kilometres from Bali across the Bali Strait, and the ferry runs around the clock. Once across, the island opens into volcanoes, temples, cities and one of the best rail networks in Asia.

The crossing

Gilimanuk to Ketapang, 45 minutes to an hour on the water plus loading, running 24 hours, very cheap. Foot passengers, scooters, cars and trucks all cross.

From southern Bali, Gilimanuk is three to four hours by road. Buses run from Denpasar's Ubung terminal directly to Java with the ferry included.

Java is one hour behind Bali. Set your watch or miss a train.

The classic route east to west

Banyuwangi. The arrival town, base for Ijen, with its 1am blue-fire treks and turquoise acid lake. Also the departure point for trains west.

Bromo, four to five hours from Banyuwangi, for sunrise over the caldera.

Malang, a pleasant colonial-era city, a good stop and a rail hub.

Yogyakarta, the cultural capital, for Borobudur, Prambanan and the kraton. Three nights minimum.

Bandung, cool and hilly, with the Tangkuban Perahu volcano.

Jakarta, the capital, for the old town and onward flights.

That is two to three weeks done properly, or ten days at a push.

Trains, which are the best part

Indonesian trains are comfortable, punctual, cheap and scenic, and the Java network is genuinely good. Executive class is air conditioned with reserved seats; economy is fine and much cheaper.

Book in advance through the national operator's app or website, particularly around holidays, when the whole country moves.

The Banyuwangi to Yogyakarta run takes most of a day and passes volcanoes, rice fields and the south coast. It is one of the great train journeys in Southeast Asia and it costs very little.

Doing it by scooter or car

Possible and increasingly popular. Note that Bali rental agreements usually prohibit taking a bike to Java, so this means your own vehicle or a rental arranged for the purpose. Java's main roads are busy, the toll roads are good, and the mountain routes are spectacular.

Costs

Overland travel in Java is cheap. Trains cost a few hundred thousand rupiah for long journeys, guesthouses 150,000 to 400,000 a night, meals a few tens of thousands. The expensive items are volcano tours and Borobudur's upper-terrace access.

Practical notes

Java is predominantly Muslim and more conservative than Bali. Dress accordingly away from tourist sites, and expect Ramadan to change opening hours significantly.

It is busier. Java holds more than half of Indonesia's population. Cities are dense and traffic is heavy.

Volcanoes close for activity regularly. Have a plan B.

Altitude and cold at Bromo and Ijen catch people out repeatedly.

Malaria risk is low in most of Java, unlike eastern Indonesia, but check current advice for rural areas.

The short version

If you have four days, do Ijen and Bromo and come back. If you have ten, add Yogyakarta and fly home from there. If you have three weeks, keep going west and finish in Jakarta or carry on to Sumatra.

Where to break the journey

Banyuwangi for Ijen, and for the train west. It is an unremarkable town with a good purpose.

Probolinggo or Cemoro Lawang for Bromo. Cemoro Lawang sits on the caldera rim and is cold, basic and worth it for the walk to the viewpoint without a jeep.

Malang for a comfortable stop with colonial architecture, good food and rail connections in every direction.

Solo (Surakarta) as a quieter alternative to Yogyakarta, with its own kraton and batik tradition, an hour away by train.

Going the other way

Plenty of people do this route westward to Jakarta and then carry on by ferry to Sumatra at Merak, which opens up Lampung, Bukit Barisan and eventually Lake Toba. That is a month, not a fortnight, and it is one of the great overland journeys in Asia.

What to book in advance

Trains, particularly executive class and around holidays. Borobudur upper-terrace tickets. Bromo and Ijen tours if you want a specific date, because both close for volcanic activity and the operators fill quickly when they reopen.